Sewing with Knit Fabrics 101
Sew Many Projects Podcast
Episode 3: Stretch Yourself – Sewing with Knit Fabric
Welcome to episode #3 where we discuss all things knit or otherwise known as stretch fabric!
This topic is something that I, Cherilyn, am very passionate about and excited to share with you. Join Grace as she discovers more about sewing with knits in her sewing journey. Grace started with stretch fabric sewing a pair of bikinis but didn’t turn out the way she had planned and has not really dabbled in sewing stretch since then. I started sewing knits fairly early on in my sewing journey as well, making scrunchies and bows out of Cotton Lycra and French Terry before moving my skills into sewing baby clothing. This is where I truly fell in love with sewing this type of fabric because it is very soft and forgiving when making clothing – plus everything just looks stinking cute.
Understanding Knit Fabric
We’ve noticed that when people hear "knit fabrics," they often think of knitted or crocheted items. But in the sewing world, knit fabrics usually refer to those soft, stretchy materials we use for clothes and accessories.
Unlike woven fabrics, which are made from multiple threads woven together, knit fabrics are made from one continuous thread, creating loops that give them their characteristic stretchiness. Think Cotton Lycra, French Terry, and Rib Knits. Each type has its own unique feel and uses, making knit fabrics incredibly versatile.
Did you know that elastane, spandex and lycra are all the same stretch component used in knit fabrics?
Choosing the Knit Fabric
Choosing the right knit fabric can be a bit overwhelming, but don’t worry—we’ve got you covered! Here are a few factors to consider:
- GSM (Grams per Square Metre): This measures the weight of the fabric. A higher GSM means a thicker fabric, while a lower GSM indicates a lighter fabric.
- Fabric Composition: Look at the blend of materials. Cotton Lycra, for example, is great for everyday wear, while French terry is perfect for cozy winter garments.
- Stretch Percentage: Some fabrics stretch more than others. Check the stretch percentage to ensure it suits your project.
- Read the pattern: Most patterns will include recommended fabrics that are best for the project.
Note for beginners: Try working with affordable fabrics from places like Spotlight to get a feel for how they work. Once you’re comfortable, you can explore different types of fabrics and brands.
Cutting Stretch Fabric
Rolled edges and fabric stretching are common problems with knit fabrics. We suggest using pattern weights and keeping the fabric flat (without overhang) on your cutting table to prevent distortion.
Stretch Pins: These can prevent holes appearing in your fabric as it moves the threads to the sides rather than piercing them.
Rotary Cutters: Perfect for cutting knit fabrics smoothly without distortion.
Important to note: Knit fabric can have 2 way or 4 way stretch so it is important to make sure you are cutting the fabric according to the pattern paying attention to grainlines and stretch lines.
Cher’s Reel on Cutting Stretch Fabric:
Sewing with Stretch On Your Sewing Machine:
You can sew beautiful stretchy garments on your sewing machine and a huge plus is that you don’t have to finish edges as stretch fabric doesn’t fray like wovens. Here are some things to keep in mind:
Stiches: When it comes to stitches, the zigzag stitch is a must for knit fabrics. It allows the fabric to stretch without breaking the thread. The lightning stitch is another great option as it is a variation of a zigzag stitch; it looks more like a straight stitch but with one long side and short side allowing the fabric to stretch. If you want to do a straight stitch you need to use a stretch thread which will stretch with the fabric and won’t break under tension. I recommend trying Seraflex by Mettler if you want to give it a go.
Needles: Ballpoint, Jersey or Super stretch needles are recommended for stretch fabric as they push the fabric fibres to the side without piercing them. This should prevent skipped stitches and tears in the fabric. Keep in mind that the lower GSM the lower your needle size should be.
Twin Needles: Extra type of Needle that provides a professional looking finish for hems or binding necklines as it replicates the look of a cover stitch. It looks like two straight stitches on top and the back looks like zigzags which allows the fabric to stretch.
A nice to have attachment that I highly recommend is a walking foot. This foot helps feed the fabric evenly through your machine, preventing puckering.
Cher’s Reel showing examples of different types of stitches you can try on stretch fabric:
Sewing with Stretch on Your Overlocker
As I mentioned you can sew stretch predominantly on your sewing machine, but I personally LOVE using my overlocker as it is super speedy and creates a finished look from the get-go.
Differential feed: This setting is important to know as it can affect the way your stretch fabric feeds through the machine. The differential feed controls the way the feed dogs operate. Differential set to 1: Feed dogs move at same speed.
Differential set to below 1: Front feed dogs moves slower than the rear feed dogs (Stretches fabric as the back feed dogs are pulling the fabric faster and this method is great for lettuce hems)
Differential set above 1: Front feed dogs moves faster than the rear feed dogs. (Causes woven fabric to gather but allows stretch fabric to feed evenly as it isn’t being pulled by the rear feed dogs).
Be mindful that the thickness and stretchiness of your fabric will determine the settings you will need on the machine, and I encourage you to become familiar with experimenting and learning your machine.
Have fun with finishing edges using your overlocker by trying a lettuce hem!!
Cher’s Reel on setting up an overlocker for sewing stretch:
Other Q’s:
What interfacing do I use with stretch fabric? Non-woven interfacing will add stability but allow some stretch. Woven Interfacing stabilises and removes stretch – great for when you need to add snaps.
Do I need to press my seams with knit fabric? No, you don’t need to! But it can help. Sometimes if you do get some waviness in your seams a quick press can tighten the fibres giving it a more professional finish.
Cher’s Favourite places to buy stretch Fabric:
Cloth Cuts: Best place for printed fabrics with over 10,000 prints to choose from and the artists receive commissions for every metre of their print that is sold. You also have the option to order the print on your favourite fabric base.
Wattle Hill Fabrics: Massive range of solid fabrics.
Plus, supporting local businesses is always a win!
Favorite Patterns and Projects
Our favourite patterns:
Little Lizard King: Sinclair Romper
*(FREE)* Waves and Wild: Lightning Leggings
Pattern Companies to try: Lowland Kids (Adult and Children’s Patterns)
Papercut Patterns
Community and Trends
The sewing community is full of inspiration and support. We can’t emphasise enough the importance of community feedback and participation. Whether it’s through Instagram, sewing groups, or podcasts, connecting with fellow sewists can boost your motivation and creativity.
One of the current trends in the sewing world is the rise of the Ganni top. This cute, tie-front top has been popping up everywhere! Another trend is Bridgerton-inspired dresses, with their romantic, Regency-era vibes. If you’re feeling adventurous, why not give one of these trends a try?
Conclusion
Sewing with knit fabrics can seem daunting, but with the right tools, techniques, and a bit of practice I promise you’ll be creating beautiful stretchy garments in no time. We hope this post has given you the confidence and inspiration to dive into your next knit fabric project.
Don’t forget to join the conversation on Instagram at the Sew Many Projects podcast and fill out our feedback survey. Your input helps shape future episodes and makes the sewing community even more amazing.
Happy sewing, friends! Until next time, keep those needles moving and those creative juices flowing.
