Which Needle Do I Use?
Hints and Tips
Think you can use just any needle for that fancy fabric you splurged on? Think again! These metallic marvels are more than just pointy ends; they're your ticket to flawless seams, the secret sauce to your sewing success. From the jeans you ripped at last night's party to the silk scarf you're gifting your bestie, there's a needle for that.
And guess what? You’re about to become a needle-naming ninja!
So, rev up your sewing machines, and let's take a walk on the sharp side of sewing. By the end of this, you'll not only know your needles but also wield them like the sewing superstar you are!
So what do the numbers mean?
If you're anything like me you've looked at a packet of sewing machine needles and thought "what the heck do all these numbers mean?". Well, let me tell you, it's not as complicated as we originally thought.
It's actually based on the diameter of the needle itself. It's measured in hundredths of a millimeter - yikes! The higher the number, the thicker the needle.
So when you're looking at a packet of needles you'll see two numbers (eg. 80/12). In this instance the 80 is metric measurement and the 12 is the imperial measurement. And because metric is the best we'll stick with reading that. So for a 80/12 needle, it just means that the needle size is 0.8mm (crazy small!)
Of course different fabrics will call for different size needles. Using the appropriate size for that fabric will prevent potential damage to the fabric and make sure that the needle doesn't break.
So stick to these guidelines:
- Finer Fabrics - like satin, chiffon, muslin etc - use a smaller needle like 60/8 or 70/10
- Medium Fabrics - like cotton twill, cotton lycra, use a standard 80/12 needle
- Heavy Fabrics - like denim, canvas, synthetic leather - use a thicker needle like 100/16 or 110/18
How often should I change my needles?
Please, don't be like my mum and answer that with "when the needle breaks".
When I did research on this answer, Google tells me that you should change your needle after every sewing project (or about 6-8 hours of sewing). But the main thing to keep an eye on to is know when you need to change your needle is. When your needle begins to become blunt, this could be because you hit a pin while sewing, or you've just been sewing with it for a long time! Sometimes your needle will begin to skip stitches, or damage your fabric, if either of these happen - change your needle
WHAT NEEDLES ARE THERE AND WHAT SHOULD I USE?
Universal
These are the trusty reliable everyday needles. They will work well for most fabric bases. They have a slightly rounded tip and of course, come in a variety of sizes. They're also versatile enough to work in most modern domestic over lockers.
Jeans/Denim
The heavy duty sewing needles. Keep these guys for sewing fabrics like denim, canvas and synthetic leather/vinyl.
Denim needles have a strong, sharp point and a reinforced blade, this helps them to handle thick layers and tough fabric bases.
These needles are generally thicker than the rest too so they will leave a larger hole in your fabric, so it's a good idea to make sure you're not accidentally using these for any other bases.
Microtex/Sharp
Microtex have a very fine, sharp point. You will find these all have smaller numbers on their packets making them a thinner needle. Being thinner allows them to sew through tightly woven bases without damaging the fabric (ie no snags or pulls allowed)
These are great for those extra delicate fabrics, like silk or satin. As well as any dense fabrics like microfibre or PUL. However keep in mind that sewing with dense fabrics can make the needles become dull more quickly, so you will need to change them more regularly.
Twin
A twin needle looks intimidating but I promise that it's not and its worth it for the final outcome on your sewing project.
Being the funniest looking needle of the lot, the twin needle (is as its name says) two needles attached to a single shank. That shank then goes into the sewing machine just like a normal needle.
You're going to need two separate thread spools - two needles = two thread spools. BUT you will want to thread the machine just like normal until you get to the needles. Then you will want to thread each needle separately.
Of course within the twin needle family there are also different needle types. So you will just need to make sure you have the right kind of twin needle for your fabric (keep an eye on that packaging and don't just grab the first one you see)
What's so special about the twin needles though? I hear you asking. I was dubious at first too but these stitches can help finish off hems with a professional look and still allow for the fabric to stretch (hello cotton lycra makes).
Just make sure you're only using a straight stitch for this one, or you'll end up breaking a needle or two when they hit the presser foot or the throat plate - yikes!
And if you're unsure, just test it out on a scrap piece of fabric first. That way you can make sure that the tension and stitch length is correct and avoid any yucky puckering
Ballpoint/Jersey
These are the best choice for knit fabrics. They have a rounded tip that allows for the needle to pass through the fabric rather than making a hole. This essentially prevents runs in the fabric.
Don't be afraid to use these needles for other bases too as they are super versatile and you might just find yourself a new favourite needle.
Stretch
Stretch needles are similar to ballpoint needles but have a medium ballpoint tip, a shorter eye and a flatter shank. This allows the needle to be closer to the bobbin hook which will prevent any skipped stitches happening.
